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The Antique Auto Shop located
and purchased this car for our customer. Originally the customer
brought in a 1966 G T O two-door Hardtop for restoration. After
the seats and carpeting were removed and the car was put on a lift
we discovered just how much rust the Hardtop really had. Rust was
found in all the floor pans, trunk floor, the ledge between the
back seat floor and the trunk, the rear wheelhouse, quarter panels,
around the rear glass opening, the filler between the rear glass
and deck lid, around the tail lights and trunk lips. Well, anyway
you get the idea. Any car can be restored no matter how rusty, given
unlimited time and money. In the customers best interest, we felt
a better solution would be to locate another car.
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We Found One!
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This "66" GTO convertible,
originally from Texas, was located in Missouri and brought back
to Northern Kentucky for restoration.
The G T O we located still had the original
burgundy paint, white peralescent interior (really called parchment),
389 C I D V-8, Automatic Transmission, Power Steering, Power Brakes,
Air Conditioning, Bucket Seats, Console and Power Rear Antenna
and AM/FM radio.
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Before starting work it is desirable to confirm
the authenticity of the VIN number as follows:
VIN# 2 42 67 6 K 100267
| First # (2) = Pontiac |
| Second & Third # (42)
= GTO |
| Fourth & Fifth # (67)
= Convertible |
| Sixth (6) = Year |
| Letter (K) = Plant Built
(Kansas City) |
| Last Six # = Production
Number |
Rust was found in the floor pans due to a leaking convertible
top with minor rust in the trunk floor, less than dime sized holes
in the quarters and rusty dash because of a broken windshield.
These were a few of the challenges, but it still represented a
good prospect for restoration and the customer was happy because
we located a convertible. Restoration cost is close to the same
for any body style, so why not start with a convertible?
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Restoration is a time-consuming and
costly venture. It is important first to
determine from the customer the quality or level of restoration
they expect. How particular are they as to authenticity and detail?
Also will this car be a Show Car or Driver?
Our experience over the past 25 years tells us that most customers
want to drive and enjoy their cars. I would estimate that less
than 5% of all our full restorations are Show Cars and the other
95% of our restoration projects become nice drivers. When doing
a FULL restoration, full meaning everything on the car (see a
future article about full restorations), it can become very expensive.
All of this diagnostic and discovery process allows The Antique
Auto Shop to provide a more realistic cost for restoration. We
provide a budget and work schedule that remains flexible while
the work is in progress. Please revisit soon, to follow
the continuing series of our 1966 G T O restoration project car.
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Getting Started:
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All restorations begin
with an overall diagnostic inspection. The electrical system, gauges,
lights, power equipment, etc. are all checked. We will attempt to
get the engine running, maybe test drive the car to determine the
condition of the brake system, transmission and suspension. A compression
check will give us some indication of the engine condition. The
Antique Auto Shop will look over the body for evidence of rust or
previous accident repair. A list is formulated of needed chrome
and trim parts, also broken light lens, weather stripping, and other
small items that should be replaced.
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Start of the
Restoration:
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After we have completed a diagnostic
check of the overall condition of the mechanical components, electrical
gauges, condition of the wiring, the fuel system and brake system.
We make a list of parts and accessories discovered not to be in
working order. As well, we create a list of parts that must be located.
Some of these parts may only be available used or N.O.S. Many of
you may have heard the term N.O.S. These letters mean NEW OLD STOCK.
These are New Parts manufactured in the 60’s or 70’s, maybe in the
80’s that were factory produced parts for a specific car. These
parts are often in original factory boxes and sometimes expensive
due to the limited supply. Back to above mentioned lists.
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(This photo was taken prior to the disassembly.
The car appears to be solid with dents in a few places.)
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(This photo was also taken prior to the
disassembly.)
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The parts that
should be rebuilt or must be replaced due to setting too long, such
as gauges, alternator, starter, or in our case, convertible top
pump motor and convertible top cylinders. Other parts that may need
replacing would be master cylinder, power brake booster and brake
lines. When locating necessary parts for a restoration project these
parts usually fall into one of five (5) different categories. These
are the 5 R’s....REPLACE, REPAIR, REFINISH, RESTORE & REPLATE.
When we complete our list the non -working, possibly broken or missing
parts will all come under one of the 5 R’s and sometimes more than
one. For fun, think why some of our parts may fall under more than
one of the R’s
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From the beginning of the restoration
the discussion with our owner of the 1966 GTO Convertible, as with
most customers, indicated he wanted a very nice driver, not a show
car. This is how we proceed with the disassembly. We first take
numerous photos from all angles showing body damage, dented and
broken parts. We photograph all door openings, fender, hood
& trunk lines.
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(The windshield was cracked
& broken. Over a few years the front top of the dash
board rusted through. We located a dash out of a parts car,
cut the rust away, and welded the new dash into place.)
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(The carpets were removed
to reveal a very rusty floor. The convertible top had rotted
after years of exposure to Texas sun. This allowed the rain
to come into the car. As you may guess the bottom seat springs
were also rusted beyond saving.)
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We make a visual inspection
of all of the hood, trunk, and door opening lines. If we know
the car was involved in an accident or there is visible misalignment
we send the car to the frame shop before we begin the disassembly.
With the Chassis being straight. The
reassembly process and alignment of body panels should move along
without any problems.
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DISASSEMBLY:
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We unbolt and
removed the front and rear bumpers, grills, headlights, hood and
all body parts. Create another list and inventory the broken and
damaged parts that need one of the 5 R’s. During the disassembly
we also photo this process. One of the most important areas of any
restoration is marking, tagging, bagging and making drawings of
the disassembly. At this point, after doing the disassembly mentioned
above, we could have a large pile of screws, bolts, nuts, washers
and clips. Even at this early stage it is possible that you may
not know the exact locations of all the fasteners removed. Our process
includes tagging and bagging of all small parts indicating their
location on the car. All of this may seem time consuming, and it
is, but without good inventory and record keeping the correct re-assembly
process would be nearly impossible.
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(The original burgundy color
is under some of the trim parts after being removed. This
paint has not been exposed to UV rays from the sun. The
paint that is covered will be the exact color we will custom blend
our paint to match.)
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(Right front fender.
Chemically stripped to bare metal. Ready for smoothing or
rust repair.)
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After the body
parts are removed, the fenders, hood, doors and deck lid were chemically
stripped to bare metal. The body was media blasted to strip the
paint and primer. The floor pan is also sand blasted to bare
metal. When parts are returned to our shop stripped, the bare metal
must be primed. Following soon the chassis and floor pan will be
painted semi-gloss black.
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Remember.....our
restoration project is not a show car so the complete chassis
is painted semi-gloss black. If you were restoring a show
car, specific parts of the chassis may have been bare metal.
Some areas on the floor pan or chassis parts may be painted with
red oxide primer or have special paint markings indicating performance
options.
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RUST REPAIR, BODY WORK &
PAINT:
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(Rusted floor pan after sandblasting
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Even though
this GTO came from North Central Texas, the floor pans were very
rusty. After sandblasting the floors, more rust was discovered than
originally anticipated. rust repair will cause the expense of any
restoration to escalate substantially
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| After media blasting the body, sandblasting
the floor pans and chassis, it is easy to see the amount of rust in
the floor pans. After receiving aftermarket floor pans we begin pre-fitting
so that we know wha area of rust won't be repaired by the new floor
pans. Most jobs will need some hand fabricating to repair all of the
rust discovered. Note: Don't be surprised that the replacement floor
pans won't fit without some hammering, cutting and re-welding. |
(Rusted metal in floor cut away. Spot welds on floor braces
drilled to remove the bad floor. Braces are to be sandblasted
prior to fitting the floor pan)
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(Replacement floor pan being trimed and fitted after cutting
away the original rusted floor.)
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We cut the rusted floors away and cut, trim and
fit the new floor pans. Floor braces under the floor pans are sandblasted
and coated with a rust inhibitor. Prior to welding in the new shee
metal floors, we drill holes in the floor and plug weld the floor
pans to the the floor braces as they were welded from the factory.
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The new floor pans are butt welded to the original
remaining floor sheet metal. This provides a on piece floor pan.
We never lap and weld any sheet metal unless this is the way it
was produced from the factory.
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(Replacement floor pan fitted, shaped and trimed. Coated
with acid etch primer, ready to be welded in place.)
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(Body work and smoothing completed. Body is sprayed with
acid etch primer.)
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Although the quarter panels only had minor rust
holes the size of a dime, the left quarter sustained an accident
sometime in the life of this GTO. After straightening and minor
rust repair on the quarter panels and the rest of the body, the
completed body is primed with an acid etch primer
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